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Towards the end of my time in Israel I took the opportunity to go and have a look at Ḥezekiah's water tunnel, in the City of David. The City of David archaeological site is outside the walls of present-day Jerusalem (though the original city stretched up to include the Ophel—the oldest part of the city—and part of the Temple Mount).

Arriving two hours before closing time, and finding admission to the water tunnel ceased two hours before closing time, I set off hotfoot into the cave system, but had the good fortune to soon catch up with a tour group, to which I appended myself.

Much to my delighted amusement, the tour guides were all carrying dog-eared תנ״ךs (Bibles), from bookmarked sections of which they were quoting to illustrate the story.

The original Jebusite city was not built in the best place for defence. It's located where it is because of the need to built it near access to water, in the form of the Giḥon Spring—but the Giḥon Spring was outside the city walls, thus presenting a weakness in time of siege. The Jebusites built four towers around the spring, and later an underground passage from the city to the spring—but like the original Tube lines, this tunnel was merely a surface-dug trench then roofed over with slabs, and in this case, subsequently disguised with vegetation.

It's thought that it was through this tunnel was how King David conquered the city in ca. 1000 BCE: As 2 Samuel 5 and 1 Chronicles 11 (the latter in square brackets) record:

The king and his men went to Jerusalem, to the Jebusites living in the land. They said to David, saying, You shall not come here unless you take away the blind and the lame, that is to say, that David could not come in there. Nevertheless David took the fortress of Zion, that being the city of David. David said on that day, Everyone who smites the Jebusites—arriving in the conduit—and the lame and the blind that are hated of David's soul, [he shall be chief and captain. Yoav ben-Ṣeruyah arose first, and he became chief]. Therefore they said, The blind and the lame shall not come into the house. So David dwelt in the fortress, and called it the city of David; and David built round about from Millo and inward. וַיֵּלֶךְ הַמֶּלֶךְ וַאֲנָשָׁיו יְרוּשָׁלִַם אֶל־הַיְבֻסִי יוֹשֵׁב הָאָרֶץ וַיֹּאמֶר לְדָוִד לֵאמֹר לֹא־תָבוֹא הֵנָּה כִּי אִם־הֱסִירְךָ הַעִוְרִים וְהַפִּסְחִים לֵאמֹר לֹא־יָבוֹא דָוִד הֵנָּה׃ וַיִּלְכֹּד דָּוִד אֵת מְצֻדַת צִיּוֹן הִיא עִיר דָּוִד׃ וַיֹּאמֶר דָּוִד בַּיּוֹם הַהוּא כָּל־מַכֵּה יְבֻסִי וְיִגַּע בַּצִּנּוֹר וְאֶת־הַפִּסְחִים וְאֶת־הַעִוְרִים שנאו (שְׂנוּאֵי) נֶפֶשׁ דָּוִד [יִהְיֶה לְרֹאשׁ וּלְשָׂר וַיַּעַל בָּרִאשׁוֹנָה יוֹאָב בֶּן־צְרוּיָה, וַיְהִי לְרֹאשׁ] עַל־כֵּן יֹאמְרוּ עִוֵּר וּפִסֵּחַ לֹא יָבוֹא אֶל־הַבָּיִת׃ וַיֵּשֶׁב דָּוִד בַּמְּצֻדָה וַיִּקְרָא־לָהּ עִיר דָּוִד וַיִּבֶן דָּוִד סָבִיב מִן־הַמִּלּוֹא וָבָיְתָה׃

Three centuries later, when the city was threatened by Sennacherib, the Bible records (2 Chronicles 32):

When Ḥezekiah saw that Sennacherib was come, and that he intended to fight against Jerusalem, he took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the waters of the springs which were outside the city, and they helped him in this. Many people were gathered together; they stopped all the springs, and the brook that ran through the midst of the land, saying, Why should the kings of Assyria come, and find much water? ... This same Ḥezekiah also stopped the upper watercourse of Giḥon, and brought it straight down to the west side of the city of David. And Ḥezekiah prospered in all his works. וַיַּרְא יְחִזְקִיָּהוּ כִּי־בָא סַנְחֵרִיב וּפָנָיו לַמִּלְחָמָה עַל־יְרוּשָׁלִָם׃ ג וַיִּוָּעַץ עִם־שָׂרָיו וְגִבֹּרָיו לִסְתּוֹם אֶת־מֵימֵי הָעֲיָנוֹת אֲשֶׁר מִחוּץ לָעִיר וַיַּעְזְרוּהוּ׃ ד וַיִּקָּבְצוּ עַם־רָב וַיִּסְתְּמוּ אֶת־כָּל־הַמַּעְיָנוֹת וְאֶת־הַנַּחַל הַשּׁוֹטֵף בְּתוֹךְ־הָאָרֶץ לֵאמֹר: לָמָּה יָבוֹאוּ מַלְכֵי אַשּׁוּר וּמָצְאוּ מַיִם רַבִּים׃ ... וְהוּא יְחִזְקִיָּהוּ סָתַם אֶת־מוֹצָא מֵימֵי גִיחוֹן הָעֶלְיוֹן וַיַּישְּׁרֵם לְמַטָּה־מַּעְרָבָה לְעִיר דָּוִיד וַיַּצְלַח יְחִזְקִיָּהוּ בְּכָל־מַעֲשֵׂהוּ׃

Having seen the water tunnel at Megiddo, I was expecting something similar here. The Megiddo tunnel, which dates to the eighth or ninth century BCE, runs for seventy yards underground in a straight line from within the city's walls, to the well outside the city, which was then buried to prevent ground-level access. Every day the women of the city would walk the tunnel to get water.

Ḥezekiah's tunnel is a different beast altogether. For a start, the floor is below water level, and it slopes down, thus bringing the mountain—or at least, its water—to Moḥammed. I'm told in January the water is a raging torrent over waist high. When I went it was mostly just at ankle depth, but near the start came up to the bottom of my shorts. (There was one person in our party in long trousers, who went through the tunnel anyway!)

The second big difference from the Megiddo tunnel is that this tunnel is much longer—533m long. On googling to learn where it was, I was expecting to read that the tunnel was a marvel of engineering of its age. Instead, I learned its construction was somewhat of a shambles. It took until I actually went into the tunnel, though, to fully appreciate why.

The tunnel was constructed by two teams of engineers heading towards each other—but with no means of ensuring they actually got to each other! So they dug in big S-shaped loops, in the hope that this would make sure the two tunnels eventually intersected each other, somewhere! Eventually they did, but one of the tunnels was way too high, so they had to deepen it, meaning that although the tunnel is only a couple of feet wide throughout, it varies from five to about twenty feet high!

In 1880 a plaque was found recording the construction of the tunnel (click on the image for a higher-resolution version):

[...] הנקבה. וזה. היה. דבר. הנקבה. בעוד. [מנפם. החצבים. את]
הגרזן. אש. אל. רעו. ובעוד. שלש. אמת. להנק[ב. נשמ]ע. קל. אש. ק
רא. אל רעו. כי. הית. זדה. בצר. מימן. ומ[שמ]אל. ובים. ה
נקבה. הכו. החצבם. אש. לקרת. רעו. גרזן. על. [ג]רזן. וילכו[.]
המים. מן. המוצא. אל. הברכה. במאתים. ואלף אמה. ומא
ת. אמה. היה. גבה. הצר. על. ראש. החצב[ם

[] the tunnel [ ] and this is the story of the tunnel while [ ]
the axes were against each other and while three cubits were left to cut? [ ] the voice of a man [ ]
called to his counterpart, [for] there was ZADA in the rock, on the right [ ] and on the day of the
tunnel (being finished) the stonecutters struck each man towards his counterpart, ax against ax and flowed
water from the source to the pool for 1200 cubits. and 100?
cubits was the height over the head of the stonecutters [ ]

The reason for the damage to the plaque is because it was levered off the wall by looters in 1891. Fortunately, the pieces were recovered, and returned to the Ottoman authorities, for which reason the inscription is currently on display in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Linguistic note for non-Hebrew readers: This is a 2900 inscription, and yet, given a transliteration into the Assyrian alphabet the Jews adopted 2500 years ago, I can still (more-or-less) read it! Linguistic note for Hebrew readers: Note the lack of matres lectionis in the old Hebrew: אש, קל and רעו where you'd expect איש, קול and רעהו. The Bible misses out certain matres lectionis (like the missing וs in של[ו]ש and אמ[ו]ת here), but never these ones! You can see the same phenomenon, only even more so, on the tenth-century BCE Gezer Calendar.

Emerging onto a Herodian road at the Pool of Shiloaḥ at the far end (or, corrupted into Greek, Siloam, or, corrupted again into Arabic, Silwān), I was surprised to see, both there, and back at the City of David excavations, that excavations are still ongoing, and still turning up exciting big new finds. I would have thought everything here would have been thoroughly excavated up to a century ago, but apparently not.

Silwān today is an Arab village at the edge of East Jerusalem. However, I was disturbed to find a number of Jewish houses there, bought by Jews who feel that such a historically important site should not be devoid of a Jewish presence today. Whilst I can see their point, I still find this rather disturbing...

In my next posting (probably), I'll be putting up my photographs. I'm just waiting now to hear back from a couple of the people I've asked for permission to use their image and/or name before doing so.

Date: 2007-07-26 10:43 pm (UTC)
From: (Anonymous)
Far from being shambolic, the construction of the tunnel was a masterpiece of engineering! You have to remember, this was back in the days before laser guidance and all that. It wasn't like when they built the channel tunnel and the two teams digging from either end met in the middle within a precision of about half a metre!

In actuality, most of the tunnel is straight as an arrow. Its only right in the middle that the tunnel curves left and right, which is exactly what you would expect.

So advanced is the engineering in fact, that for many centuries the passage in Chronicles was regarded by scholars as some sort of allegory. People simply thought the technology didn't exist in antiquity to redirect the water course underground. The tunnel was only rediscovered by modern archeologists in the 19th century.

Also, you should know that most of Jerusalem is unexcavated. Anything which touches on biblical stuff is extremely contentious. For example, take a look at the excavations round the south side of the temple mount. I think that these were done in the 60's and 70's and haven't been touched since. There's loads more potential digging to be done round the eastern and northern walls, not to mention on the mount itself, but all these places are too politically and religiously sensitive to allow digging.

Paul

Date: 2007-07-27 12:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lethargic-man.livejournal.com
Far from being shambolic, the construction of the tunnel was a masterpiece of engineering!

I was wrong about "shambles"; the actual quotation (http://www.bibleplaces.com/heztunnel.htm) I was referring to, which I have now found again, was:
R. A. S. Macalister said the tunnel was a "pathetically helpless piece of engineering."

Henry Sulley in 1929 first suggested that Hezekiah’s tunnel followed a natural crack in the rock.

Dan Gill argues that the two crews of diggers followed a natural karstic dissolution channel.
You have to remember, this was back in the days before laser guidance and all that. It wasn't like when they built the channel tunnel and the two teams digging from either end met in the middle within a precision of about half a metre!

It's true. I'm just surprised they even tried when they had got so little confidence the two ends would ever meet!

In actuality, most of the tunnel is straight as an arrow. Its only right in the middle that the tunnel curves left and right, which is exactly what you would expect.

That's simply not true. Have you ever been in the tunnel? It bends right from the word go. There's a map here (http://www.geocities.com/Athens/oracle/1631/hez1.html), and a (slightly simplified) cutaway plan here (http://www.snunit.k12.il/njeru/pba8.htm).

Also, you should know that most of Jerusalem is unexcavated. Anything which touches on biblical stuff is extremely contentious. For example, take a look at the excavations round the south side of the temple mount. I think that these were done in the 60's and 70's and haven't been touched since.

That's also not true; there's excavations going on by Robinson's Arch (about 200m from the Wall) at the southwestern corner of the Temple today; and lots of excavations going on in the City of David less than quarter of a mile to thee south of the Temple.

There's loads more potential digging to be done round the eastern and northern walls, not to mention on the mount itself, but all these places are too politically and religiously sensitive to allow digging.

True—though that didn't stop the Waqf illegally bringing in contractors to carry out construction of two underground mosques in the Temple Mount itself. Rather than working with archaeologists and excavating the site properly, they simply hauled away the waste, which probably contained material from the First Temple period as well as the Second, and dumped it. The Hebrew University later retrieved this waste, and is sifting it to see what it can find; and if I'd still been in Israel, I'd have attended a talk on this, and joined briefly in the sifting effort myself today.

Date: 2007-07-27 03:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluepork.livejournal.com
In actuality, most of the tunnel is straight as an arrow. Its only right in the middle that the tunnel curves left and right, which is exactly what you would expect.

That's simply not true. Have you ever been in the tunnel? It bends right from the word go. There's a map here, and a (slightly simplified) cutaway plan here.


Ok. What I actually meant is that most of the tunnel only curves a little bit. There's only one bit right in the middle that's REALLY wibbly wobbly! And yes, I have been through it. It was a tiyul during my stay at Brovinder's.

I think that these were done in the 60's and 70's and haven't been touched since.

That's also not true; there's excavations going on by Robinson's Arch (about 200m from the Wall) at the southwestern corner of the Temple today; and lots of excavations going on in the City of David less than quarter of a mile to thee south of the Temple.


I only said I _think_. I defer to your greater and more recent knowledge.


I'm not signing off as P or Paul now, becuase then you'd know who I am.

Date: 2007-07-27 03:11 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hatam-soferet.livejournal.com
I LOVE Hezekiah's tunnel. I love how you can still see the pick marks on the walls, and the niches for lights, and I love how the tunnel goes all big at the far end, and ...everything, really. Going through the tunnel was easily the most powerful part of being in Israel for me.

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